STYLE KNOWLEDGE 16

Like most products, the details of a suit have many names. The collar of the suit is called a lapel, but this refers to specifically to the lower part of the collar. The upper part is simply called the collar. Diamond-shaped lapels are generally known as notched lapels, with sharper designs referred to as peaked lapels. Learning these details will help you communicate with shop staff when you go to buy a suit, and remembering them lets them act as keywords when picking out a design that works for you.

The shoulders are an essential point when making a suit. The thickness and application of padding can vary the shape of the shoulders dramatically.

Square shoulders

Pads are inserted into the shoulders, squaring off the sleeve seam. These shoulders have angular lines.

Natural Shoulder

A natural line matching the shoulder line, making it droop down slightly. Has no padding, or perhaps only light padding within.

Drop Shoulder

The entire shoulder is rounded off, making the shoulder lines droop more than usual. Thin padding is often utilized for this style.

The area beneath the collar. The width, shape, sharpness and position of the lapel can significantly alter a suit’s presentation

Notched Lapel

A diamond-shaped lapel often seen in single-breasted suits. Often known as single-breasted jackets, the angles of the upper and lower lapel seams are between 80 and 90 degrees.

Peaked Lapel

The tip of the lower lapel points upwards. This is often used on double-breasted suits, but sometimes appear on single-breasted suits as well.

Semi-Peaked Lapel

Known for having a larger angle on its lower lapel than the peaked lapel style. Also known as the floor-level lapel.

Welt Pocket

The standard design for breast pockets. Also referred to as jetted pockets, they are known for their belt-shaped opening.

Bark Pocket

This style appeared with the classico Italia trend. Gets its name from its boat-like shape.

Flap Pocket

A pocket with a cover flap. Storing the flap turns it into a double piped pocket. Above it is a change (aka coin) pocket.

Vents are the unique accent on the simple backside style of suits. Some suits lack any such vents, which is known as the no-vent style.

Center Vent

A single slit on the lower back of the suit. This is considered the orthodox style.

Side Vent

A common design in British style suits. This is normal for double-breasted suits, and is often seen in single-breasted models as well.

Hook Vent

A key-shaped center vent representative of Ivy League style.