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Style Knowledge 22

Style Knowledge 22

Sunday 22nd July
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The back hem of a jacket or suit often contains a slit known as a vent, but this did not originally exist on jackets. But a taste for horseback riding began developing among British aristocracy, and vents were added to jackets to make them easier to wear atop a horse. The single slit known as a center vent was first to appear. From there the side vent style appeared, with vents on either side of the jacket. Incidentally, horseback riding is an outdoor event, so there is no issue with vents appearing on jackets used for outings. Jackets worn on formal occasions, however, do not need a vent. This is why tuxedos and similar formal wear have no vents. In this vein, jackets with slanted pockets on the sides are known as hacking jackets, and these pockets were attached at a slant to make it easier to insert one’s hands while on horseback.

Center vent
A single slit on the lower back of the suit. This is considered the orthodox style.

Side vent
A common design in British style suits. This is normal for double-breasted suits, and is often seen in single-breasted models as well.

No-vent
Coined for jackets with no slits on the lower back. Often seen in mode type jackets.

Welt pocket
The standard design for breast pockets. Also referred to as jetted pockets, they are known for their belt-shaped opening.

Patch pocket
A general term for an attached pocket. Adding a flap turns it into a flap pocket.

Piped pocket
A pocket made with piping along the opening composed of thin bias fabric. Also known as a piping pocket.

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